Cities visited:

• Sighnaghi – A charming hilltop town in Georgia’s wine country, known for its cobblestone streets and sweeping views of the Alazani Valley.
• Tbilisi – The vibrant capital blending ancient history with modern culture along the banks of the Mtkvari River.
• Stepantsminda – A gateway to the Caucasus Mountains, famed for its dramatic scenery and the iconic Gergeti Trinity Church.

Other cities to consider

• Batumi – A lively Black Sea resort city with a mix of beaches, modern architecture, and subtropical charm.
• Kutaisi – One of the world’s oldest cities, rich in UNESCO-listed monasteries and natural wonders nearby.
• Mestia – A remote Svaneti mountain town, renowned for its medieval stone towers and alpine landscapes.

PRO TIPS:

• Visit Wanderlush for the best resource in planning your Georgian adventure! 
• No visa needed for US citizens (as of Sept 2025). In fact, Georgia is known for being very visa friendly in that many nationalities don’t need them and you can stay in Georgia for a long time before needing one! 
• While you can pay for a lot of things with card (especially in more touristy areas), you will also need to have some cash for smaller vendors or for mrshtrukas for example.
• Public busses around Tbilisi were super easy to navigate with google maps and just tapping your credit card on the machine reader on the bus.
• There are some long journeys in Georgia as you get around so plan that into your trip. 
• You can book hotels/homestays as you go if you want flexibility. There was always plenty of availability even booking day of while I was here.

TRANSPORTATION:

• Sighnaghi —> Tbilisi: Easy marshrutka ride from the bus station in Sighnaghi (just ask your accommodation to point you in the right direction but I’ll link it here too). It’s about a 2 hour journey. 
• Tbilisi —> Stepantsminda (also can be listed as Kazbegi): Head to Didube Bus terminal (see here for the exact location of the marshrutka). It’s a chaotic station, but if you ask anyone for Kazbegi, they should point you in the right direction. See here for a comprehensive write up on transport options between these two locations as well.
  • If you want you can ask the driver (would cost more) to make a few stops along the way.
    • Ananuri monastery along a gorgeous river/lake 
    • Gudauri view point / Friendship monument 
• Stepantsminda —> Tbilisi: see above but in reverse. Marshrutkas leave from here.

FOOD TO TRY:

• Khinkali – meat or cheese dumplings where you flip them upside down and hold them by their little nub. Try to eat them without the juice flowing out! 
• Adjarian khachapuri – the only non-circular Khachapuri. This one is in a boat shape with a raw egg + pad of butter they throw in right as it comes out of the oven. Then you mix it all together inside the bread boat so it all cooks. You eat it by ripping off pieces of the bread boat and then dip it into the cheese/egg mixture. 
• Mingrelian khachapuri- looks like pizza without red sauce. This version is HEAVY on the cheese so obvi I loved it, but it might be a bit much for most folks. 
• Shkmeruli – a delicious baked chicken dish cooked in a garlic/sour cream sauce.
• Kebabs- They have delicious pork/beef combo kebabs.
• I had lots of different soups here that were all yummy!

CITY: SIGHNAGHI

HOW LONG: 2 NIGHTS

ACCOMMODATION:

I stayed at one of the few hostels here (more of a homestay with one dorm room), and it was GREAT (except one thing, which I’ll mention at the end). Nato & Lado (both the name of the homestay & the name of the couple who runs it) are so unbelievably hospitable and kind. Every night they offered a free wine & chacha tasting (that they make themselves) and you can chat with them about their lives in Georgia. Unfortunately, in the middle of my first of two nights, I woke up to bed bugs again! Twice in two days in two different countries, that seems like a record haha. They were very kind about it and were very distressed about trying to resolve the issue (which is understandably difficult). They also moved me to a private room for my second night. It’s a bummer because I would absolutely recommend this place, except for the bed bug incident  

WHERE TO EAT:

You must stop by Cafe Medea for her ice cream with wine. It’s divine, and I’m someone who doesn’t love wine. It’s more like sweet muddled berries but wow it’s delicious. Also the view is fabulous!

Have a lunch or dinner at The Golden Lion. The prices are reasonable and there are tons of local dishes to pick from. I tried the shkmeruli – so great! Make sure to get bread to soak up all the yummy sauce. 

WHAT TO DO:

Spend an afternoon walking around town for beautiful picturesque views of the old town with its walls and towers surrounding it. 

Our hostel arranged for a day trip around the region to see some wineries & a monastery. We visited:

• Bodbe Monastery – near town & easy to visit. Unfortunately it was raining but we still made the best of it. 
• Kvareli Wine Cave- We had a wine tour but opted out of the wine tasting since we would do one at the next stop. Opened in 1962 with 15 tunnels (2 major tunnels at 1.5km & 13 connecting tunnels, almost in a ladder shape). They have 40,000 wine bottles in their reserve – eventually their goal is 1 million bottles in reserve. They make 70 varietals of wine & produce 10 million bottles a year
• Corporation Kindzmarauli – This visit included a wine tour & tasting for 10 Lari. This is the oldest in the Kvareli region – 16th century. They produce 40 types of wine & 2.5 million bottles per year. They export to 22 countries & a total of 80% of their wine is exported. We learned that in Georgia there are 520 types of grapes.
• Our last stop was a man-made lake, which was pretty but nothing to write home about.

OVERALL THOUGHTS:

Other than the bed bug incident, I really liked it. If I didn’t have to race to Armenia to meet up with my friend Sabrina, I likely would’ve stayed another night or two here just to soak up the views and maybe have another wine ice cream 🙂

CITY: TBILISI

HOW LONG: 10 NIGHTS

ACCOMMODATION:

I visited Tbilisi two separate times so the first time I stayed in a hostel (2 nights) and the second, longer visit I rented an apartment on airbnb (8 nights).

I stayed at Envoy Hostel in the old town. It’s walking distance to all the major sites and plenty of great restaurants. There are personal lights and plugs for each bed, as well as lockers. No curtains though. There are two common areas, one more traditional one with a kitchen and lots of seating to work, play cards, eat etc and then a rooftop bar where you can see the skyline and get a drink. 

My airbnb for 8 days was very tiny, but perfectly adequate for what I needed. It was a little studio with twin beds in it, a washing machine, and AC. It was very affordable so I can’t really complain, but I would stay elsewhere if I was here with a friend. The location was the highlight – right in the middle of in the mix of Old Tbilisi.

WHERE TO EAT:

Head to Khinkali Pub to try a few different khinkalis in a swanky setting. It gets busy though! 

Dila Georgia – cute small breakfast cafe. I tried the Georgian breakfast with a hard boiled egg, bread, cheese and honey. Yum!

Cafe Daphna was a great spot for your first meal in Tbilisi. You can order khinkali by the unit so you can try all the different flavors! I also got to try Lazuri Khachapuri for the first time here. It’s not too far from the center of the old town but far enough that it doesn’t feel touristy! 

Khinkali Collection – I mean I really didn’t have a bad meal in Georgia. This was yet another great Georgian restaurant will all my favs: khinkali, khachapuri, and compote 🙂 I also had a khinkali dumpling soup which was great!

Café Stories – very cutely decorated brunch spot with delicious food offerings. Very Instagrammable! I tried a Khinkali that was made in a croissant – so fun! I also had the French toast, which was great! The service was fabulous and I’d happily return. 

Brunch & Dine – little brunch restaurant (serves breakfast food until 5pm) tucked away in a quiet neighborhood. Colorfully decorated with an open kitchen. Lovely vibes with good food.

My Coffee Tbilisi – One of my favorite hot chocolate’s I’ve ever had! Tiny, cozy spot with comfy chairs to read a book with your coffee/hot chocolate in hand.

Try a chimney cake from Lumier’s. I’ve had a chimney cake before in Prague, but this was also delicious! This locally owned shop is popular so don’t be surprised to see a line out the door. It’s small but has tons of great options. Pro tip: before 6pm they have a mini chimney cake option if you just want to try it without fully committing 🙂 I had one filled with strawberries, vanilla cream and chocolate!

WHAT TO DO:

• I did a walking tour through Tbilisi Free Walking Tour. It was great! I learned a ton 🙂
• Walk around town
• Take the gondola to the top of the hill in town
• Go for a run along the river
• Hunt for the best Khinkali each day
• Get a massage (I got one for ~$32 here)

OVERALL THOUGHTS:

I loved Tbilisi and look forward to coming back in the future. It’s just so flippin’ pleasant. The architecture is charming, the food is stunning, the people kind, and I felt so safe. I really enjoyed my slow week here. I actually think I could happily live here.

CITY: STEPANTSMINDA/KAZBEGI

HOW LONG: 4 NIGHTS

ACCOMMODATION:

I couldn’t find any hostels in this tiny town (hello business opportunity!!) so I decided to splurge on a private room at a hotel. It was such a treat. The hotel was small but felt pretty new. It had great views of the mountains and a nice outdoor deck. Breakfast was available each morning downstairs (for a price). It’s about a 10 min walk to the very center of town, but very accessible & safe to walk around at night here. I would absolutely recommend this hotel (but there are plenty of great options here), just make sure to get a room with mountain views!

WHERE TO EAT:

• Ratio Bakery – this place has delicious baked goods that are a great option to pick up for a quick breakfast before heading out for a hike! 
• Capra Breakfast & Coffee – This happened to be in my hotel, but this is a great option for a more sit down breakfast with a large buffet of delicious options.
• Samani – This is a great dinner spot with all the classic delicious Georgian classics. I split a Adjarian khachapuri, khinkali and a Liter of Strawberry compote (local handmade fruit juice) with a Spanish couple I met on my bus ride from Armenia to Tbilisi, a few days prior. The restaurant had a nice vibe to it (whereas a lot of places in Stepantsminda were more basic in decor) 
• Dootsi – great for lunch or dinner. After our big hike to the Trinity Church, the three Slovenian gals I met on my bus here from Tbilisi & I headed here for a hearty lunch. As per usual we got some khinkali to share. It was my first time trying the cheese khinkali (normally I’ve order the meet one) and I really enjoyed it! This place has a big deck with stunning views of the Trinity church and MT Kazbek (as long as it’s clear). 
• Chek Shawarma – Really yummy, cheap shawarma spot. I ate here a couple times as a casual, quick meal. Would highly recommend!

WHAT TO DO:

The main thing to do here is hiking!

• I hiked to Trinity Church (the most popular hike) with three Slovenian gals I met. It had stunning views of the whole valley. Ideally you go on a clear, sunny day for the best experience. It can get cold & windy at the top so bring some layers (I was here in Sept so maybe in July it’s fine).
• We also hiked to this viewpoint which was stunning in the other direction. We saw lots of sheep & a small church.

OVERALL THOUGHTS:

Stepantsminda is lovely! It was slightly less developed than I expected given it’s such a popular destination, but that’s part of its charm. Just be aware that in off season there will likely be even less restaurant options. It’s a pretty casual town so half the time I’d walk into a restaurant and no one would be there. Eventually someone would show up, but pretty funny experience. The views are unreal and I would highly recommend spending 1-3 days here (longer if you want to do more hiking).

BUDGET FOR 16 DAYS IN GEORGIA:

• Accommodation: $463 ($29 per night)
• Food: $320
• Activities: $15
• Local Transportation: $51
• Miscellaneous: $80 (massage)

Total: $929 (Daily average: $58) 

Transportation to next destination: $265 (Two flights to Malta + bus to Armenia in the middle of Georgia)