Jan 2020
CITY: Canggu
I spent 3.5 weeks exploring around Bali and a few other islands nearby. After 3 months of non-stop adventuring in NZ & AUS, I was very excited to do a whole lot of nothing in Bali to rest and recuperate. Who said traveling wasn’t hard?! Luckily for me, Bali was filled with time spent with my sister, friends from NZ, and new friends. I also got by open water scuba certification! There were good things about Bali and not so great things, but more about that later.
HOW LONG: 2 NIGHTS
ACCOMMODATION:
I met my sister at the Bali Airport and we took a taxi to our hostel in Canggu, called The Farm Hostel. Because my sister was visiting on her “holiday,” we decided to splurge on a nice hostel and The Farm is known as one of the more popular spots in Canggu. However, we regretted it. While in general it was a nice spot, the place was filled with a bunch of influencer types who were on a 3 week holiday/vacation so we didn’t really connect with many of them (as much as we tend to do with other backpackers). We thought we might extend a night once we got there, but we fairly immediately decided to move on to Ubud. The facilities were nice but it was fairly loud at random times. The breakfast was not that filling. The pool was enjoyable, but we didn’t love the people around so we were happy to continue onward.
WHERE TO EAT:
Rise and Shine Cafe– My favorite brunch spot in Bali ๐ I went a total of 3 times here. Can highly recommend the french toast, the breakfast sandwich and the pancake rolls as well as any of the smoothies.
Fish Bone Local– While waiting for the surf lesson, Ellie and I stopped here for a drink and it was such a nice, airy, casual vibe.
WHAT TO DO:
Ellie, my sister, was a bit jet lagged and I had hit a bit of a wall from the non-stop adventure of NZ/AUS so we slept in and got brunch both days. The highlight for us was a surf lesson down at Canggu Beach, though. We organized it through the hostel, but check out Airbnb Experiences for other options.
OVERALL THOUGHTS:
Canggu didn’t impress us all that much. We found it difficult to walk around due to the small streets and crazy drivers and motorbikes. It was fairly crowded with people and we didn’t meet anyone we really connected with. However, stay tuned to my opinion on Canggu after coming back a second time.
CITY: Ubud
HOW LONG: 5 NIGHTS
ACCOMMODATION:
My sister and I headed to Ubud after Canggu, and following the less than fun experience at the hostel, we decided to splurge on a hotel. We loved our stay at Bebek Tepi Sawah hotel. It was a small hotel with about 8- 10 rooms, two restaurants (one just for hotel guests) and a spa. The bed was so comfy, the room was spacious and the bathroom was dreamy with a bath and outdoor shower. The staff were so kind and helpful. The only downside was it was a bit far from the main bit of “downtown” Ubud. I wish it was more in walking distance, however, the hotel offers a shuttle that will take you down to two different spots in town as well as pick you up. Overall great place to stay.
WHERE TO EAT:
L’ Osteria– This was a more upscale Italian restaurant near the Monkey Forest. I had a very yummy pizza and pasta that my sister and I split. Ambiance here was so lovely.
Suka Espresso– Had a delicious burger (hard to come by in Bali) and a milkshake! Also, just a cute place to hang around in.
WHAT TO DO:
The main activity Ellie and I did was an “instagram” tour around the area. We booked through Airbnb Experiences (just search from experiences in Ubud and tons of options will come up). While I normally don’t love doing things like this, it was a fairly economical and efficient way to see some sites around the area. We visited the Water Palace, Gate of Heaven, waterfalls, a Swing and some rice fields. It felt a little silly to be amongst the heavy stream of tourists doing the exact same thing, but like I said, it was an efficient way to see a lot in one day. And of course we got some fun pictures ๐
Ubud is known for the Monkey Forest in the city center. You can spend 1-2 hours walking around the many groups of monkey’s (over 700 monkey’s in total) living here. This was a fun afternoon activity. Just be careful with your belongings as they are famously known to pickpocket whatever they can get their hands on.
Other than that tour and the Monkey Forest, Ellie and I put some serious spa time in. We got multiple massages over our 5 days, a facial, a hair treatment and a body scrub. All for less than one massage would cost at a hotel in the States ๐
We also had dinner with Sabrina, who was getting her Yoga Teacher Training nearby. This is the 7th country Sabrina and I have been to together ๐
OVERALL THOUGHTS:
Ubud was a nice little break from the go, go, go travel I had been doing. It was nice to relax, see some monkey’s and hang with Ellie. Definitely don’t skip Ubud while in Bali.
CITY: Gili T
HOW LONG: 5 NIGHTS
ACCOMMODATION:
I stayed at three different spots in Gili T:
Broken Compass– This was a cute, homey hostel on Gili T. It’s fairly small so it’s easy to get to know the people staying there. There are activities most nights and a pool so again it’s fairly easy to be social. I spent 2 days here before switching to Gili Castle because I got a discount there through the dive shop I was getting certified through. Would definitely stay here again (and I wish I had stayed here the whole time…. you’ll see why below).
Gili Castle– This is a party hostel, which is already strike one for me (lol). I am really not into party hostels as I usually don’t find too many people I connect with and I don’t drink a ton so normally I don’t seek out party hostels. However, given the discount I decided to be “responsible” and take advantage of cheap accommodation. Boy did I regret that! Let’s just say that after not being able to sleep for 5 hours, I woke up at 4am covered in BED BUG BITES. SO let’s just say there is no reason to stay here.
Marygio Resort– After the bed bug debacle, I decided to move to a hotel. This was a beautiful little oasis. Not it’s not a 5 star hotel, but for $40 a night, I was thrilled to have a king bed, a private bathroom and a pool to dip in.
WHERE TO EAT:
Casa Vintage Living– My favorite smoothie bowl spot on Gili T. It’s off the main street, which means it’s not as crowded and it’s affordable. They also have a location on the west side of the island for prime sunset watching.
Gili Bliss– This is on Gili Air, the smallest of the Gili islands. We ate here while on the snorkeling day trip. It was such a cute spot and as per usual I got a delicious smoothie bowl.
Regina Pizzeria– If you are craving an affordable pizza, look no further.
Gili Teak– a great spot to watch the sunset on the western side of the island.
Coffee and Thyme– ate here a few times for lunch and dinner. Smoothie bowls galore. Are you surprised?
Honeyst– This was a special dessert spot that combines ice cream, mango and honey. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but wow do they know how to play with flavors. Stop here in the heat of the afternoon for a cold treat or after dinner.
Banyan Tree– another great cafe on the beach with a fun, colorful menu.
The many delicious meals of Bali! Can you tell I like smoothie bowls?
WHAT TO DO:
Scuba diving- There is a lot of great diving in the area and I took advantage and got my open water certification here! Highly recommend Gili Divers. I had a blast here.
Snorkeling- I booked a day trip snorkeling around the 3 islands, which was great. I saw the Gili Meno underwater statues, turtles and plenty of fish. It was about $8usd so quite cheap and booked it through Broken Compass, the hostel I was staying at.
Ride a bike or walk over to the western part of the island for sunset. The sunsets are legendary and there are tons of cute bars set up for this very purpose.
OVERALL THOUGHTS:
Gili T was a blast. I loved that there were no cars and you can just walk/bike around the island. A perfect mix of relaxing + adventuring with the incredible scuba diving/snorkeling available. While the bed bugs put a hamper in things, it didn’t stop me from loving my time here in Gili T.
CITY: Nusa Penida
HOW LONG: 3 NIGHTS
ACCOMMODATION:
Nuansa Penida hostel was literally named one of the best hostels to visit in 2020 by hostelworld so if you find yourself on Nusa Penida this is the place to stay. Two beautiful pools. Super comfy beds. Met great people. Small restaurant onsite. Curtains on the bed. Lockers in the room. Nice bathroom. Would definitely stay here again.
WHERE TO EAT:
Sunny Cafe– This was my favorite food on the island. Every dish was delicious!
Secret Cafe– Very instagrammable spot, and while the food was good, it wasn’t the best I’ve ever had. Worth a stop though!
WHAT TO DO:
Through Nuansa hostel, we did a tour of Broken Beach, Angel’s Billabong, and Kelingking Beach. I didn’t feel the tour was worth the time/money with the excepting of Kelingking Beach. I would highly recommend battling the crowds to visit this spot.
We also tried to snorkel with manta rays, but unfortunately they weren’t anywhere to be seen the day we went ๐ฆ
OVERALL THOUGHTS:
While Nusa Penida is definitely beautiful and less touristy than other spots around Bali, the lack of infrastructure showed. The roads were treacherous and difficult to navigate. No way to get around besides hiring a driver unless you were brave enough to battle to narrow, windy, bumpy roads. It was difficult to get food at night unless you wanted to eat at your accommodation each night (which I felt got old). There were power outages each day I was there (once at night while I was in the pool, which turned out magical because the stars were insane). All in all, Nusa Penida was not my favorite, but if you have the time, it’s not a bad spot to hang for a few days if you know what you are getting into.
CITY: Uluwatu
HOW LONG: 2 NIGHTS
ACCOMMODATION:
This was not my normal backpacker spot, but when a friend I met in NZ (Sophie) invited me to join her here, I was excited to treat myself. Sal’s Secret Spot was a magical little gem (Thanks Sophie for finding this!). The room was so, so cute. The bathroom was outside (like many bathrooms in Bali) and I loved showering under the blue sky. Living up to it’s name, there were many nooks and cranny’s to cuddle up with a book or to lie in the sun. Also, the breakfast was so yummy. Anyway, if you have the money to splurge, you can’t go wrong with staying here.
WHERE TO EAT:
Casa Asia– This was nicer place to eat for dinner. Fairly extensive Italian menu with something for everyone. We also had one of their delicious desserts. Highly recommend this restaurant for a nicer meal or a date night.
Drifter Cafe– This was a cute little cafe attached to a surf shop. Good breakfast and snack food.
WHAT TO DO:
It rained while Sophie and I were here so we mostly took advantage of the nice hotel we were at and spent our time reading and getting massages. This also meant we didn’t get to go to one of the many famous cliff side bars for sunset.
While we didn’t go surfing, Uluwatu is known for it’s beaches and surfing so that’s another fun thing to do while in town.
OVERALL THOUGHTS:
Uluwatu was nice break from the frenetic cities in Bali and I enjoyed the down time with Sophie. There was no pressure to go see or do anything so we focused on massages and good food. If you have the time to get down to Uluwatu, it is worth it.
CITY: Canggu
HOW LONG: 4 NIGHTS
ACCOMMODATION:
The second time around in Canggu went much better. This was helped by the fact that I was with 4 of my favorite people from my NZ travels. Also, I had been in Bali for 2.5 weeks at this point so felt much more comfortable and relaxed. Anyway, we stayed at a MUCH better hostel called the Palms. It’s a fairly new hostel so it was affordable for such a nice hostel. Honestly I think it’s comparable to The Farm, maybe even better. The bed’s were luxurious. There were curtains and lockers and nice bathrooms. The pool was great and had some nice bean bags and chaise lounges to hang around on. Also, it’s right near Rise and Shine as well as Crate Cafe. Definitely highly recommend staying here while in Canggu.
WHERE TO EAT:
Crate Cafe– This is a well known cafe in Canggu, known for beautiful menu items for a very reasonable price. While the line can be long, it’s definitely worth the wait.
Penny Lane– The most beautiful, instagrammable, adorable restaurant in Bali. I loved it here. Definitely not local food, but delicious, delicious food. Lots of truffle options so you know I am happy.
WHAT TO DO:
We spent most of our time by the pool but did manage to venture out to hang at another pool at a beach club ๐ La Brisa had a few pools, beach front beds and a delicious menu for food and drinks. Not a bad spot to land for a few hours to watch sunset.
OVERALL THOUGHTS:
Canggu was much better this time around. I was more relaxed and less burnt out (although plenty sun burnt ๐ ). It was nice to not make any decisions and just go along with whatever the group wanted. Using Gojek (which I hadn’t gotten the hang of the first time around) made life way easier. If I ever go back to Bali, I would head straight to Canggu for the food alone.
CITY: Seminyak
HOW LONG: 4 NIGHTS
ACCOMMODATION:
Because I met up with three friends I made in NZ, we decided to get a villa for the group of us instead of staying at a hostel. Bali is made for this so it seemed like the right move. It’s fairly affordable if you have a group of people so it was a no brainer. We booked through Airbnb, so check out the many villas available on the site.
WHERE TO EAT:
Warung Nia– This place was such a joy to dine at. So much so that we had dinner here three nights in a row! Get ready for the best hospitality, delicious local food for local (ish) prices, and a fun atmosphere with live music.
Kynd Community – Good brunch food + but definitely more known for being Instagrammable.
Gelato Shack– It’s hard to come by good gelato in Southeast Asia, but Gelato Shack delivers!
Wacko Burger– This is a fun burger restaurant with yummy milkshakes and fries. Also pizzas, because why not?
WHAT TO DO:
Because we had a villa to ourselves, we enjoyed sleeping in and lounging the day away at our private pool. We managed to drag ourselves out by heading to a private surf lesson for the group that we booked through Airbnb Experiences. There are a ton of options so just read the reviews and book away!
On our last day we spent a day at Potato Head, a well known beach club, where we met up with two more of our friends from the NZ trip. We enjoyed the swim up bar in the pool and some poolside snacks before watching sunset in the pool. Can you tell Seminyak has been pool time heavy?
OVERALL THOUGHTS:
Seminyak was more chaotic and built up than anywhere else in Bali. I couldn’t describe it as cute, quaint or relaxing. However, by staying at a villa, we were able to create our own relaxing zen zone to enjoy.
Overall thoughts on Bali
What made Bali so special for me was the many familiar faces I got to see while here. Bali itself I don’t think will ever make it on the list of my favorite places in the world. In fact, I don’t think I’ll ever be back. I wish I had gone to Lombok and Flores. Bali felt like a contrived construction of a place. Poverty intermingled with wannabe influencers and any shot the instagrammers posted didn’t ever show the trash on the ground or the stray dogs roaming around. Or the shacks locals lived in. I don’t know. Maybe I just wasn’t in the right frame of mind, but rarely did anything feel authentic. Also, I never thought I would come to appreciate sidewalks as much as I did here. It was frustrating not being able to just walk around and explore an area. Instead, the lack of sidewalks and narrow roads that barely fit one car let alone two way traffic forced us to always have a destination in mind when leaving our accommodation. However, I did have some great massages, explore new parts of our earth through scuba diving, and had some amazing smoothie bowls so not all was negative ๐
The Pursuit Of Travel