Northern Ireland

CITY: Belfast

HOW LONG: 4 NIGHTS

ACCOMMODATION:

I stayed at Global Village, which was a fabulous hostel! Beds were comfy, had personal usb charging for your phone & a little shelf to put your stuff. Lockers under the bed fit both my backpacks for safekeeping. Also, they had a decent free breakfast of cereal & toast. Kitchen facilities were decent and the two common areas were spacious & cozy. Easy to meet people! I also met the owner who was very kind & even graciously refunded me a night when I last minute decent to go to Derry for a night with Ashleigh, an Aussie gal I met on the walking tour. The only slight downside is that it’s about a 20 min walk to the center of Belfast, but it’s an easy walk or bus ride. 9.5/10 would recommend this place!!

Where to eat:

I don’t have a ton of recommendations for sadly. I wasn’t overly impressed with the food in Northern Ireland sorry to say.

I tried JuiceJar and was pretty disappointed with the smoothie bowl. It was very icy and bland. 

Ashleigh & I went to a few pubs while traveling together but nothing notable. 

What to do:

The walking tour proved to be very pivotal to my time in Northern Ireland as I met Ashleigh, who ended up being my partner in crime most of the time while I was visiting. She showed up to the walking tour with very cute blonde curly hair so I went over and quickly complimented her & asked what her routine was like! We became fast friends during the tour and after we decided to go to lunch together. Then she invited me to join her to the Titanic museum. Then she suggested I join her in the rental car for the next 2 days to explore the countryside with an overnight in Derry. I decided to skip the tour I had booked and forego my night in the hostel (although I ended up getting that refunded) and said “heck yes.” I truly love being about to meet people and then changing plans to follow them on new adventures!

Roadtrip with Ashleigh!

Okay now for what we did:

Titanic Museum –  Firmly okay. We felt like we didn’t learn much in the first half of the tour, although the second half was better. It seemed to be more about the building of the ship, when obviously we wanted to understand more about why it sank. 

Dark Hedges– Made famous from Game of Thrones! Northern Ireland played a big role in the filming of HBO’s Game of Thrones, with over 25 filming locations. Pretty stunning in real life!

Kinbane Castle – Fairly rundown but in a beautiful spot. Gorgeous walk to get to this lesser known castle and we didn’t run into a single other tourist!

Carrick-a-rede Rope Bridge – One of the most photographed spots in Northern Ireland! It is thought salmon fishermen have been building bridges to the island for over 350 years. It has taken many forms over the years, but the current one was built in 2008. In 2018, the bridge had over 485k visitors.

Giants Causeway – This is what I was most excited to see! Pretty wild natural phenomenon. Almost 60 million years ago the Giants Causeway was formed, and this series of basalt rock columns is Northern Ireland’s only UNESCO world heritage site. Definitely a highlight, but it POURED rain on us on our walk back to the car, which was less fun. 

We stay overnight in Derry at Ashleigh’s hotel, but sadly given our big day, we were too tired to do anything once we arrived except get dinner. Both of us were let down by the restaurant so just headed back to the hotel to watch the first episode of the last season of Sex Education, which had just been released. We had a great night’s sleep before getting up early to head back to Belfast since Ashleigh has a wedding to get to!

Overall thoughts: 

I ended up having a blast, but if I hadn’t met Ashleigh, who knows if I would be saying the same thing. I’m always saying, traveling is all about who you meet!!! Also we were dying laughing half the time trying to guess if the people around us were speaking English or another language. Ashleigh even asked a few people and each time they laughed and said “of course we are speaking English.” Holy Moly is the Northern Irish accent hard to understand haha 

BUDGET FOR 4 DAYS IN Northern Ireland:

Accommodation: $86 ($28.66 per night) – Ended up getting one free night since I stayed with Ashleigh in her hotel in Derry.

Food: $67

Groceries: $0 (ate out + free breakfast at the hostel/hotel)

Activities: $119 (paid for a tour I ended up skipping to explore with Ashleigh + all the entrance fees + Titanic Museum)

Local Transportation: $86.70 (higher than normal due to the rental car)

Total: $359.7 (Daily average: $90)

Transportation to next destination: $201 (Connecting flight to France)- Bought last minute 😦 * Update – because the first flight ended up getting cancelled, I got $275 in compensation – yay EU flight compensation rules! This means I ended up $75 richer from the whole ordeal – and I still made it to France 🙂

First Video: Europe 2016 UK + Ireland

I can’t believe it but my first month in Europe is complete! I’ve had the most amazing time exploring the UK and Ireland, which included riding a motorcycle for the first time (sorry mom + dad), learning how to operate lochs for a canal boat (thanks Simon!), and sampled some of Ireland’s greatest exports (Guinness and Irish Whiskey). I spent 39 hours in buses, trains, and planes and visited 17 cities in 4 countries!

So grateful for the friends I made along the way and for the friends who opened their homes to me. Can’t wait to continue this journey!

Here’s a video of my first month in Europe!

Ireland

First off, I just wanted to thank my lovely friend Laura for giving me advice on what cities I should see through Ireland! I ended up being very happy with my final itinerary!

I arrived at my hostel in Dublin around noon and immediately met a group of guys from San Diego. They were headed to Howth, a coastal village that is a 30 minute train ride from Dublin and invited me to come along. It was so fun! The town is famous for its fish and chips so that was our first order of business. Next we decided to hike up to the light house, which was about 7.5 miles roundtrip.

View from the Howth harbor

Lighthouse and cliffs in Howth

 

After we returned to Dublin, we went out to dinner around 10:30pm. We didn’t realize that most places stop serving food around 10pm so we ended up at a late night “American Diner” called Eddie Rockets, which was very similar to Johnny Rockets back in the States. After, we went to the famous Temple Bar, which has been open since 1840!

The next day I went on a walking tour of Dublin and learned all about the history between Ireland and England, and Ireland in general. For example when the referendum on gay marriage came up in Ireland, over 100,000 Irish people living abroad flew home to vote. It was one of the biggest weeks for Dublin airport and the referendum passed at 62%.

I met two girls from Wisconsin on the tour who I ended up wandering around Dublin with. We ended up deciding to meet for dinner and go on a pub crawl later that night. Dublin is fantastic at night. On the pub crawl, I met Mehrdad, who is from Berkeley. After talking for a bit, we realized that we are going to be in the same city at the same time about 4 or 5 different times during our trips!

The following day I went to the Irish Whiskey Museum with another fellow Californian from the hostel. The guided tour was fascinating and after we got to taste three different Irish Whiskeys. I’ll admit that I did not like the whiskey, but it was fun to try them.

The next highlight was the Guinness Factory Tour. Despite not enjoying beer all that much, I have to say Guinness has totally dialed in the Guinness Factory experience. From learning about the beer making process, to the marketing and advertising strategy, to learning how to pour your own Guinness, the whole experience was great! The best part, however, was enjoying your hand-poured guinness at the Gravity Bar on the 7th floor, which offers a 360 degree view of Dublin.

At the Guinness Factory!

What can I get for you? Guinness, perhaps????

 

Next, I took a 3 hour bus to Galway, which is in the mid-west of Ireland. It’s the fifth largest city in Ireland, and is close to the Cliffs of Moher. I stayed at Galway City Hostel.

The first day was completely rainy so I spent the whole day playing cards in the hostel with fellow travelers and curling up with a good book. In all honesty, it was a perfect day, and it allowed me to rest up for the next day, which included an all day guided tour to the Cliffs of Moher! I can’t even begin to describe how beautiful it is so I am not even going to try; instead I’ll let photographs attempt to do it justice.

In the town of Galway I went to several excellent pubs with awesome live Irish music: Tig CóilíThe Quays, and the Spanish Arch Hotel, just to name a few. I explored these pubs with Mehrdad, who I met in Dublin, as Galway was one of the cities we overlapped in. Another great find was Gino’s Gelato. I met some amazing girls from Colorado on the tour to the Cliffs of Moher and we immediately bonded over our shared love for Colorado’s nature and The Bachelorette. In fact, I even delayed going to my next city by a few hours so that the three of us could watch the most recent episode together!

Overall I really enjoyed Galway. In fact, it might just be one of my favorite cities yet. It was quaint, yet lively. It was incredibly walkable and easy to get to by bus from Dublin. I wish I had spent more time here and less time in Dublin.

Next stop was Tralee. It’s a small town near the Dingle Peninsula. I only spent 2 nights here, but I managed to do a decent amount. When I arrived at my hostel, I was immediately told I should take a bus to Killarney, which is home to over 25,000 acres and Ireland’s only native herd of red deer. It was stunning and I wish I had been able to spend more time walking around. I was fighting daylight and was only able to walk about 4 miles of the park.

Wild deer in the park

Old growth and new growth meet

Ross Castle

Killarney overall was an adorable town, and I almost wish I had stayed here over Tralee. There were dozens of pubs, shops, and hostels. It was lively, even on a Tuesday night. I finished my time in Killarney with a bite to eat at Tatler Jacks and with an ice cream special from Murphy’s, which is a Irish staple. It was honestly some of the best ice cream I have ever had.

Dingle Sea Salt and Caramel Honeycomb with Chocolate mousse and a cookie.

The following day I went to Dingle, a town on the Dingle Peninsula. When I arrived I walked into the tourism office and asked what I should do for the day. Immediately I was asked whether I wanted to go out and see the town’s unofficial mascot. I said “absolutely” and off I went. Can you guess what it was???

Fungi, the dolphin.

That’s right… there is a single dolphin that lives in the Dingle Bay and has lived there for over 30 years. He enjoys eating, sleeping, and smiling for the camera as he swims alongside the boats.

When I got back from the fabulous boat tour of the bay, I strolled along the waterfront and wandered into Danno’s Bar and Restaurant for a relaxing lunch. After picking up a postcard (I get one in every city I go to), I wandered back to the bus stop to go back to Tralee. Because I hadn’t spent much time in Tralee, I went for a 5-mile run around town and their park in the downtown area. There was a lovely rose garden inside the park where I found my new favorite flower.

Tequila Sunrise rose

To finish off my time in Tralee, I went to a pub with a couple from the Netherlands to watch the Italy vs. Ireland game. Ireland had to win the game to advance to the elimination round of Euro Cup, something they have never been able to do before. It was so much fun being in a bar full of total locals watching a great game of soccer (or ahem* football). It turned out to be a nail biter, but the room I think actually exploded when Ireland scored a header goal later in the second half to win the game 1-0. In fact, when I was going to bed later that night around midnight, I could still here cheering and celebrations from my hostel. Definitely one of the cooler experiences I have had since being here!

The next day, I spent about 6 hours on a bus getting to the Dublin airport to get on a flight to Edinburgh. Of course, when I got to the airport my flight got delayed 2 hours so here’s to a full travel day! Left Tralee at 9:00 and arrived in Edinburgh at 22:30 (That’s 10:30pm, but I’ve had to learn to read a 24 hour clock so you should too.) 🙂

Stay tuned for Edinburgh, and whether brexit will happen or not! It has been so lovely to talk about another countries politics for a bit instead of having to explain to every traveler I meet why Trump is still considered to be a legitimate candidate to be president of the United States of America………